Brindille, Magret roast duck, and potatoes Joël Robuchon
Lucy Hewett for Saveur. Lucy Hewett
When I moved to Chicago a few decades ago, the city was known for hot dogs, deep-dish pizza, and steakhouses. Charlie Trotter, Michael Carlson, and Grant Achatz were just kicking off a flurry of modernist tasting menus that attracted foodies and expense accounts. But then, things got really interesting: A new style of cooking was born of the city’s famously insular neighborhoods, formed in the 19th century by immigrants coming from Eastern Europe, Asia, and the Americas, plus people from the American South, to work in factories and the meatpacking industry that turned the city into an industrial hub.
In the last few decades, those once fiercely divided neighborhoods—Puerto Rican, Polish, German, Indian, Irish, Mexican, Korean, and Ukrainian, among others—relaxed their barriers. A new generation of cooks came up, took inspiration from their heritage, and made food that shows what second- and third-generation Americans can create when they fearlessly combine fish sauce and sofrito. Yes, big portions and meat thrive here, but so do tacos stuffed with Filipino tocino, buttery French pastries topped with za’atar and filled with shakshuka, and fried rice tossed with just-picked asparagus, ramps, and morels.
Downtown Chicago is still a dining hub, but to fully experience the city, head to those neighborhoods on the north, south, and west sides. You’ll experience Midwest Nice from the friendly chatter and smiles from your cohorts in line as you taste a city that never stops cooking, eating, laughing, and evolving.
Obelix
700 N Sedgwick St, Chicago
(312) 877-5348
Brothers Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey, whose parents ran two of Chicago’s iconic bistros for years, have made Obelix purely their own. At this restaurant tucked in a quiet corner of the downtown art district, you’ll find classics like beef Wellington and Dover sole alongside foie gras macarons, a caviar sandwich on housemade brioche with salt and vinegar potato chips, and a savory-sweet apple galette with raclette cheese and black truffles. You might have to fight for a table or spot at the bar, but the city’s most experienced servers keep the French 75s and good times flowing.
Virtue
1462 E 53rd St, Chicago
(773) 947-8831
Is it the walls adorned with museum-quality art reflecting the Civil Rights Movement from the likes of Theaster Gates, Dawoud Bey, and Raelis Vasquez? The bar lined with folks sipping sazeracs and snacking on catfish sliders? The warm welcome from the stylishly dressed young staff? The crispy fried chicken gizzards atop dirty rice, salmon dusted with a crunchy cornbread crumble, or fried green tomatoes topped with shrimp remoulade? The rich chocolate cake with toasted almonds and salted chocolate sorbet? I can’t pick; this Hyde Park landmark restaurant, an ode to Black culture in the South, shines because of all of those things.
Avec
615 W Randolph St, Chicago
(312) 377-2002
Like a lot of Chicago food lovers, I try not to default to the Taleggio-stuffed focaccia, chorizo-filled medjool dates, and the garlicky salt cod brandade at Avec. I’ve had them a million times since the restaurant opened in the West Loop in 2003—followed by a second location in River North—but there are too many other delectable options on chef Dylan Patel’s menu. So while the focaccia often wins out, I also save room for the lemony tabbouleh studded with seasonal vegetables, the whole branzino with fiery zhoug, and the pork shoulder slow-roasted in the wood-fired oven, plus a just-baked pita to mop up every schmear and sauce. You’ll be stuffed, but don’t miss the nutter butter square—it’s the best two-bite dessert in the city.
Maxwell’s Trading
1516 W Carroll Ave, Chicago
(312) 896-4410
When I’m craving something Chinese and Korean but also Middle Eastern and wouldn’t mind some pasta, I head to this local institution. The mashup of global influences and ingredients might get sloppy in lesser hands, but chefs Erling Wu-Bower and Chris Jung’s creative dishes are consistently thoughtful and delicious. Start with snacks like gnocco fritto with prosciutto and black currant pepper jam or silken tofu with avocado and Steen’s cane syrup, then segue to a round of griddle bread (a love child of English muffins, naan, and scallion pancakes) with truffled French onion dip. And save room for the perfectly fried walleye katsu, clay pot mushroom rice, and chicken a la brasa. Enjoy the space beyond the flower-filled dining room; ask for a tour of the rooftop garden with spectacular views of the city when you make your reservation.
Brasero
1709 W Chicago Ave. Chicago
(872) 342-2079
For large cuts of meat cooked over live fire, head to John Manion’s Argentinian steakhouse El Che; for a fun, convivial vibe, head to his other restaurant, Brasero. Here, he cooks up memories from his childhood in Brazil, like the coconut-laced moqueca brimming with shrimp and mussels. The grilled branzino with lime vinaigrette bursts with bright flavors, as do the tender braised pork shank draped atop feijoada risotto and the chewy, cheesy pão de queijo with a sweet-spicy pineapple-habanero jam.
Galit
2429 N Lincoln Ave, Chicago
(773) 360-8755
In case the mezze-packed tables at this Lincoln Park restaurant didn’t tip you off, this is the ideal place for feasting. Start with the smoked cinnamon-spiced brisket—the tender meat is served atop the creamiest hummus in the city, along with pillowy pita for dipping. The saffron-spiced Iraqi lamb kubbeh halab is a sleeper hit you shouldn’t skip. But vegetables are what really shine here; the carrots coated in feta and hazelnut dukkah, as well as the fire-roasted stuffed cabbage with green chermoula are must-orders. Wrap up your meal with a Midwest-meets-Middle East phyllo pie filled with apples and finished with miso caramel. Galit offers a four-course choose-your-own-adventure tasting menu, but you can order à la carte at the communal table Tuesdays through Thursdays.
Kasama
1001 N. Winchester Ave, Chicago
(no phone)
When you can’t decide between a dozen pastries and a dozen courses, the answer is go to Kasama—even if it’s not easy to pull off. The daytime option is to brave the blocks-long line for a jamón serrano and raclette danish and a longanisa sausage breakfast sandwich (10 a.m. on a weekday is the sweet spot for getting in quickly). Battle the reservation bots for a table in the evening to enjoy upscale takes on kinilaw, sinigang, and kare-kare from the world’s first Michelin-starred Filipino restaurant. Dinner guests also get a taste of Kasama’s impressive pastry program; the tasting menu includes the restaurant’s famous truffle croissant filled with Délice de Bourgogne and dripping with honey, plus the equally beloved ube-filled Basque cake.
Gibsons
1028 N Rush St, Chicago
(312) 266-8999
On a night when nothing but a classic Chicago steakhouse experience will do, head to Gibsons (yes, in a neighborhood nicknamed the “Viagra Triangle”—just go with it). Start with a gin martini to set the tone. From there, the path forward is simple: an iceberg wedge with bacon and blue cheese dressing, an enormous platter of extra-crunchy French fries with aïoli, and for the steak, the W.R.’s Chicago Cut, a bone-in ribeye named for the late wine and food writer William Rice (who liked to pair it with a full-bodied Côtes du Rhône). Snag a spot at the bar near the grand piano to chat with the bartenders and a few local characters whiling away the evening over cocktails.
Brindille
534 N Clark St, Chicago
(312) 595-1616
If you want to spot some of the city’s top chefs celebrating birthdays and other special occasions on their nights off, head to Brindille. The menu here is rooted in traditional French techniques. Lean into it and order the white asparagus just flown in from Provence, the roast Magret duck, and the beyond-buttery Joël Robuchon-style potatoes. The classics are perfectly executed, the welcome is warm, and the bar is often packed and humming with chatter—everything you want in a fine dining restaurant. IYKYK: Swing by after a concert or event downtown to cap off your night with the city’s best cheese course.
Mirra
954 W Armitage Ave, Chicago
(773) 729-6214
One of Chicago’s most unexpected culinary mashups is the Indian-Mexican menu at Bucktown’s Mirra, where chefs Zubair Mohajir and Rishi Kumar play up the commonality of ingredients like cumin, mango, coconut, and coriander between the two cuisines. Snack on roti quesadillas, and don’t miss the standout barbacoa biryani. They prepare it dum-style, with a layer of roti dough on top of the pot to seal in the flavors as the rice and meat cook. The aromas that emerge as you crack through the roti to reveal the biryani are almost as rewarding as the first bite. If, like me, you are gun-shy about overly sweet desserts, go for the saffron- and cardamom-infused rasmalai tres leches cake.
Carino
4662 N. Broadway, Chicago
(312) 722-6838
Although Carino offers a beautiful tasting menu, I prefer the late-night, eight-course taco omakase, available at 10 p.m. for just seven guests at the kitchen counter. Book a spot way in advance, so you can slurp an oyster michelada with Modelo foam while watching the cooks griddle tortillas and pound up the ever-changing salsas in a molcajete. The kitchen uses ingredients left over from the tasting menu in these tacos, meaning crab, salmon, and Wagyu beef make appearances. And yes, you should add on the mushroom quesadilla covered in shaved black truffles.
Lula Cafe
2537 N Kedzie Blvd, Chicago
(773) 489-9554
If there’s a godfather of Chicago’s farm-to-table movement, it’s chef Jason Hammel. More than 25 years after he opened Lula Cafe as a gathering place for artists, the restaurant has become a culinary landmark. On Sundays, entertain yourself during the inevitable wait for a brunch table by wandering through the adjacent Logan Square farmers market. The season determines half of the menu each week, with standouts like cabbage stuffed with foraged chanterelles and melty alpine cheese, but the permanent menu items hold up. Gooey baked feta with olives and basil oil remains irresistible, as does the Greek-inspired pasta yiayia—bucatini slicked with cinnamon-scented brown butter and showered in garlic chips. Meanwhile, the classic Lula spicy peanut butter sandwich and breakfast burrito are throwbacks to the restaurant’s simple roots.
HaiSous Vietnamese Kitchen
1800 S Carpenter St, Chicago
(312) 702-1303
Navigating this Vietnamese spot in the predominantly Mexican Pilsen neighborhood is not unlike trying to cross the road at rush hour in Hanoi, except instead of dodging mopeds, you’re weaving through people angling for a cocktail and a platter of chef Thai Dang’s famous chicken wings. While the wings, papaya salad, and lemongrass Wagyu always satisfy, HaiSous encourages you to go a little deeper on Vietnamese cuisine. Snack on chopped clams and chiles while you plan the rest of your order, and be sure to include the bun cha Hanoi, with a charred pork broth you’ll want to sip right from the bowl. Crispy whole fried fluke comes to the table with herbs, lettuce, and nuoc mam toi for dipping, and the crab fried rice is a buttery treat (ask for a little extra fish sauce to balance the richness).
John’s Food & Wine
2114 N Halsted St, Chicago
(773) 383-7104
Yes, John’s Food & Wine is a counter-service restaurant, but of the elevated variety. That’s because two Gramercy Tavern alums run the show at this neighborhood destination located in a former diner space. Here, you’ll find expertly crafted plates like chilled lobster salad with charred leek aioli and cherry-glazed strip loin with grilled garlic scapes. Pastas like the bucatini with green garlic, mafalde with braised lamb, and spaghetti with braised pork cheek balance rich flavors with meltingly light textures. The bar is home to Chicago’s preferred happy hour combo: John’s famous twice-fried French fries and an ice-cold martini. Ask the bartender if there are any special wine bottles open; there’s always a couple of intriguing off-list options to try.
The post 14 Restaurants That Prove Chicago Is a Serious Dining Destination appeared first on Saveur.
